Venice in December: MAGIC


This city is pure magic in December.

No crowds, moderate temperatures, charm. Ahhhh what a place to be.

Walking around these small streets, sprinkled with tucked away restaurants, you can't help but feel like you're on a movie set. This can't be real.

Quick history lesson:
Venice is actually made up of over 100 islands all connected by 400+ bridges (and still adding more)! The real surprise is the genius of how Venice was created. Many centuries ago, the founders of Venice discovered by sticking wooden piles into mud, oxygen is kept out allowing the wood to not rot. Therefore they placed these wood piles into the mud all across Venice creating a stable, solid foundation. From there, they laid stone to build a solid platform, and place their city on top! I can't even imagine the amount of work and time (and genius) it took to create this beautiful city!

Standing on one of the many majestical bridges.

Again, who doesn't love a cute bridge pic...am I right?

Things to Do: EAT/SEE

Grab a coffee like a local
Ventians (and Italians) don't sit down for coffee. If you want to be a true local, order a cafe at the counter and drink standing up. You'll be surprised, if you go to a busy cafe, don't worry about the wait time! It'll be cleared out within minutes--ha!

CicchettiTry baccalà mantecato (whipped cod bites) & other yummy cicchetti* (street food)
Standing at the bar with our ciccheti and wine!

Again, like a local, grab a glass of wine, a quick bite, and eat standing by the counter or grab a table outside.

We did a food tour by a local, and it was worth it! Along with many glasses of wine, the food was incredible. Hmm...maybe all that wine has something to do with my raving review;)

Enjoying some delicious bites by the canal outside Osteria Al Squero

We went back later and even discovered another great spot, Osteria Al Squero. You luck out with a beautiful view of a smaller canal and bridges while enjoying some delicious cicchetti e vino.

*Best cicchetti spots: Cantina Do Mori, All'Arco, and Osteria Al Squero

Jewish Ghetto
A bit shocked to learn about this area to be honest. Way before modern times, Venetians used a gated curfew approach in the evenings for Jews. For the same reason as today with "outsiders," they feared their power and genius, and didn't want them to succeed. Thankfully this was lifted and it has become a very peaceful, locals area. Today only about 500 or so Jews live in this area, but it's known to locals as a true gem. You can even see the street signs still in Hebrew! There's lots of great restaurants, bakeries, and calm spots to enjoy.

Instead of taking the main crowded, and touristy road of strada nuova, hop one street over to see the true Venice--calm, beautiful, and filled with history. You'll even notice how the sounds change too.

Exploring the calmer part of Venice:)

Basilica of San Marco / Doge's palace (Palazzo Ducale)
Warning: It is touristy, BUT people go here for a reason. It's beautiful! The outside is incredible, but go inside and the amount of gold leaf and extravagance--just wow. I recommend going at sunrise when the sun just starts to hit the facade creating a beautiful glowing effect or in the evening.
Note: You're NOT allowed to take pictures inside! So instead just enjoy the view, and take pics at Doge's palace.

Tip: Don't eat or even get coffee at San Marco's Square; this area is quite expensive! Though inside Doge's palace, they do have a little cafe if you're in need of your Italian cup 'o joe. 

Inside the basilica  Source

Some Helpful Tips:

  • Use your Maps app on your phone and look up at the sides of buildings. Like France (and a lot of Europe) street signs are on the sides of buildings. Just look up to see what street you're on:) Because of the narrow and tall streets, the GPS doesn't always accurately show where you are, but does route the map correctly. Use your technology but flex your street savvy too! ;)
  • Learn a few words before you go (or pick them up on the way)! I love learning languages so this was an easy to do for me;) When you enter a place, give a friendly "ciao" or "buonasera" in the evening if you'd like. Instead of "grazie," I noticed they say "grazie mille" which is similar to the French way of saying "a thousand thanks." I started saying that along with asking for the bill in Italian, and got surprised looks and even a "You speak Italian??" Those little efforts to show you appreciate the language and culture can go a long way:)
  • GO IN DECEMBER. I can't recommend this enough. The temperatures aren't too cold, and there aren't many tourists! The streets are quite narrow; I can't imagine being packed in and trying to shuffle from street to street in the hot summer months. Note: In summer, they triple their island population every day due to the amount of cruise ships. Insane! 
  • Public transport. There are NO cars on the island, and no one uses bikes; the streets are too small! Instead, every family owns a boat. If you don't want to walk the boat bus is called the vapporetto. This can take you to other parts of the city and they also offer boat rides to the other islands farther away like Burano. 

A parked gondola

What to skip?
Gondola rides. Well, the private ones. You can take the public gondola for only 2 euros to cross the grand canal, which many locals take to get to work. Definitely beats the insane price tag of over a 100 euros for 45 min! Yes I'm sure it's beautiful and romantic, but you can enjoy the city by foot and not break the bank.

Fun fact: 
In the evenings due to the sea, the whole town has an enchanting fog that blankets the entire city. It gives the city a bit of a jazz bar feel. Scary or endearing? Your call;)

Have you ever been? What time of year did you go?? Did you ride in a gondola? Let me know below :)

bisous,
Lyndi

Looking for some Venice day trips? Check out my video on two, local islands:




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